Compared to resort venues, Morelia nightlife is sedate. That's not to say there isn't culture. Hardly a week goes by without some event: In October, the Guanajuato Cervantes Festival celebrates a Morelia extension featuring anything from Peruvian ballet to Thai opera. May brings an internationally famous organ festival. Anything from jazz concerts to opera or a poetry readings may be going on. One of the oldest music schools in North America and home of the renowned boys' choir, the Conservatory of Music always has a recital of one kind or another. Nearly all events sponsored by the Conservatory or the University are nominally priced.

Coffee houses are the latest trend in casual nightlife, but these open and close at the drop of a hat. An arts center con cafe, bar y eatery, Pena y Centro Cultural Bola Suriana has shown the most shelf life, where you'll find traditional, contemporary and Latin folk music. Open nightly (except Sunday) at 7 p.m. at Bartoleme de las Casas #564, reservations are recommended. Tel (43) 12-53-97. The gallery there's open, except during siesta.

The Palacio del Arte, located in the southeast section of town by the Plaza Morelia Shopping Center, is the first indoor bullring I've ever seen. Operated by the Organization Ramirez, Mexico's premier commercial developer, the Palacio plays host to a wide range of events ranging from Portuguese bullfighting, circuses, or rock concerts.