Mexicana and Taesa fly directly to Morelia from Chicago, Oakland, San Jose, San Francisco, and Los Angeles. Aeromar has commuter flights of about 50 minutes' duration from Mexico City and Guadalajara several times each day. 25 kilometers from Morelia, the airport (MLM) has ample set-rate taxi service.

Bus service to Morelia is frequent: from Mexico City and Guadalajara, first class busses run about every hour and the luxury bus ETN about every three. From Mexico City, the most frequent bus service departs from Observatorio (Poniente) Station, and the trip on ETN will take about 4½ hours. The fare is about $15 one-way. Guadalajara has similar bus service, and its terminal is only a few kilometers from the airport. If you're taking a first class (or worse) bus, buy two seats so that you can spread out undisturbed. On ETN and the "luxury" lines, single-seating rows are available, along with movies and beverage service.

Train service (the Purepecha) to Morelia from Mexico City (Buena Vista Station) departs Mexico City around 9:30 p.m. and reaches Morelia around 8:30 a.m. A similar schedule operates in the reverse direction. However, pullman car (especial) service is being eliminated, and unless you're a real train nut, you're better off taking the quicker and cheaper bus.

If you're driving, by all means take the new Guadalajara - Mexico City cuota. Driving time either direction is about two and a half hours. These cuotas are as safe as most US interstate highways for night driving. The libre (free road) is about five hours in either direction and decidedly unsafe for nighttime driving.

Morelia and its environs are well-suited to car trips. You'll enjoy having wheels if you intend to spend time in Patzcuaro (no trip to Michoacan is complete without a trip to Patzcuaro).

Car rental, while not as cheap as stateside (it's the insurance that keeps the price high), is available. Automatic transmissions command premium rates.

WHEN TO GO.

.. Anytime. The year-round climate in Morelia could best be described as autumn, although there's a distinct change of seasons. The warmest and driest months are from May to early July. The rainy season begins in July and ends in November...but this amounts to an hour's worth of downpour late each afternoon, nothing to become excited about or ruin plans, just enough to freshen the air. December and January can be surprisingly brisk. Year-round, Morelia nights are chilly. I may sound like your mother, but bring a sweater.

Most Americans have a lousy sense of geography. When I explain that Morelia is between Mexico City and Guadalajara, nearly 6000 feet above sea level, the usual reply is "Oh, it's on the beach." About 3" away, depending upon your map. Many can't imagine Mexico without the beach....they must think the entire country is a narrow peninsula, with little but cactus connecting its shores. You can't convince them otherwise.

While people can, and do, wear anything and everything, Morelia is a conservative city when it comes to attire. LL Bean or Orvis casual is probably the standard dress code.

 

 

SIDEBAR - CAR RENTAL IN MORELIA

Quick - 15-4466 - (lobby of Gran Hotel)
Dollar - 15-30-48 and 15-30-50
Budget - 14-70-07

Taxis, busses and collectivos (VW vans), plentiful and cheap, are recommended for downtown venues, where traffic can be congested and parking limited.