Michoacan is second only to Oaxaca as a craft mecca. Even if you're
not in a buying mood, your first stop should be Casa de Artesanias
at the ex-convent San Francisco. Just a few blocks from the
Cathedral, this state-run craft store stocks the best of Michoacan
crafts. Don't think that the inventory comes from some giant
factory; artisans are complimented by Casa de Artesanias' purchase
of their wares. Stop there even if you plan to buy your crafts at
the source. This is the best of one-stop shopping, and credit cards
are accepted. (If you haven't read your Michoacan lore, Vasco de
Quiroga encouraged each village surrounding Lake Patzcuaro to
develop distinctive crafts for trade with one another.) Upstairs is
a small but finely-tuned exhibit of Michoacan craft work. Various
Michoacan towns operate small stores upstairs ... the selection
upstairs is sometimes spotty.
Outside of the San Francisco Church is the perpetual market of
ambulantes (itinerant vendors) -- the bane of each city
administration. Instead, the market, originally permitted only
during holidays, has become permanent - or new holidays have been
invented.
The southwest corner of San Francisco is the easiest stop to
catch a local bus.
Along the north side of Madero, facing the Cathedral, are the
Portales: a block of sidewalk cafes, most renowned for lousy food
and mediocre service. When Burger King opened up under an
18th-century facade on the same block, the cafes improved immensely.
Street vendors sell anything and everything under the Portales from
American cigarettes and fake Rolexes to New Age crystals and used
books. No visit to Morelia is complete without a few hours under the
Portales, sipping coffee or beer and watching life and time pass by.
Two blocks west of the Portales, along Madero, is the famous
block-long arcaded Mercado de Dulces (Candy Market). Morelia is
famous for its ates, a fruit leather made from tamarind, mango and
guayaba (sometimes flavored with chile), and obletas, cajeta
sandwiched between communion wafers. Watch out for bees here! If
your sweet tooth is sated, another section of the market sells
traditional trinkets, ranging from leather belts and sweaters to
lace tablecloths.
On Sunday mornings, local artists sell paintings in a park at the
corner of Santiago Tapia and Guillermo Prieta. Mercado Independencia
and Mercado San Juan are Morelia's largest, traditional markets,
where you can find anything from a cookware and huaraches to freshly
butchered beef and spices.
For the genuine tianguis (native market) experience, go to Santa
Maria de Guido (looking south from downtown, it's at the top of the
hill), accessible easily by bus or taxi. This suburb, which predated
Morelia, is still very much a typical Mexican small town, although
it's rapidly becoming gentrified. The largest market is held on
Sunday morning, the most expensive (read imported fruit) on Tuesday,
and the cheapest on Thursday. You'll be able to find anything there
from fresh chicken (killed while you wait), just-made chicharrones,
to produce and gewgaws. Along the plaza and near the cemetery are
stands selling pozole, enchiladas, tacos and gorditas. (Living just
a block away, Sunday brunch para llevar is a tradition.)
Facing the gazeboed plaza in Santa Maria is Seņal, now owned by
George Shoemaker. His late father, Don, came to Morelia nearly fifty
years ago to encourage native artisans to create wonders from
tropical woods, becoming Mexico's leading authority on endangered
woods in the process. Whether you're looking for a simple wooden
tray or something larger (Seņal ships worldwide), you'll find it
here. Even if you're not in market for wood, take a look at the
amazing furniture and parquet. Or the locally made pottery. Credit
cards accepted.
